吴语扎根于吴、越故地，与吴越文化血脉相连，人文历史源远流长。“讲诵多吴语，勾提学佐书”，吴语为江南本土古老语言，见证诗画江南语言文化。吴方言区主要分布在浙江、上海、苏南、皖南及赣东北地区，历史上长期是中国经济文化核心地区。(The Wu dialect is spoken in the ancient states of Wu and Yue in China. It is an integral element of the local culture and history, serving as a testament to the linguistic and cultural heritage of the picturesque Jiangnan region, situated to the south of the Yangtze River. The Wu dialect is mainly spoken in Zhejiang, Shanghai, Southern Jiangsu, Southern Anhui and Northeastern Jiangxi, a region that has long been recognized as a pivotal economic and cultural hub of ancient China.)

吴方言分布图

摘自《中国语言地图集》

本期“记忆的味道”将带领大家走进吴语城市群之首——上海，领略上海老城隍庙梨膏糖的独有魅力，感受梨膏糖的非遗色彩。

风儿起，黄叶落，梨儿熟了。在上海的老城厢里，有这样一块“糖”，它入口有些苦涩，随后有些淡淡的清凉，在口中化开后回甘，又叫人回味悠长。这就是“上海梨膏糖食品厂”的梨膏糖，也是上海最为传统的“止咳药”。(Ligaotang, also known as pear syrup candy, is traditionally used to alleviate coughs by local Shanghainese. It is produced by Shanghai Pear Syrup Candy Food Factory. It looks like a sugar cube but tastes a little bitter at first, which gradually gives way to light coolness. As it dissolves on your palate, there is a delightful sweetness, leaving a lasting, refreshing feeling.)

探究起源，梨膏糖可追溯到唐贞观八年（公元634年）。名相魏征为治其母咳嗽气喘之症，取杏仁、川贝、茯苓等加工后掺之于梨膏之中，熬成膏状药用，而这药方便成了梨膏糖的雏形。(The earliest form of pear syrup candy took shape in 634 AD. Tradition has it that Wei Zheng, the well-known Tang Dynasty politician, invented a remedy to cure his mother’s cough and asthma. He processed and mixed traditional Chinese medicinal herbs such as almonds, Sichuan fritillary bulb, and tuckahoe with candied pear paste, and then boiled the mixture into syrup.)

上海城隍庙梨膏糖的兴起源于清代，(The tradition of selling pear syrup candy at Chenghuangmiao (City God Temple) in Shanghai began in the Qing Dynasty) “朱品斋”“永生堂”和“德生堂”在建国后，三家合一，组成“上海梨膏糖商店”。值得一提的是梨膏糖的“文卖”和“武卖”。“文卖”是指现做现卖，唱着曲儿吆喝吸引顾客。“武卖”则站在凳子上唱当时的时政新闻来推销梨膏糖，后将这种艺术形式称为“小热昏”，现也是国家级非遗项目之一。(There are two ways to advertise for the candy: Wenmai (“the literal way of selling”) and Wumai (“the martial way of selling”). While the former refers to singing songs to promote freshly-made pear syrup candy, the latter involves standing atop a stool and performing while referencing to current events for customer attraction. Also known as “Xiao Re Hun”, Wumai is one of China’s national intangible cultural heritages.)

2021年，拥有160余年历史的上海梨膏糖制作技艺被国务院列入第五批国家级非物质文化遗产代表性项目名录。(In 2021, the art of making the Shanghai pear syrup candy, a practice with a history of over 160 years, was included in the fifth representative list of State-level intangible cultural heritage items by the General Office of the State Council.)

提及梨膏糖，就不得不说起梨膏糖第三代传承人、上海梨膏糖食品厂联席厂长吴生忠。(Wu Shengzhong is the third inheritor of the techniques for making pear syrup candy and the co-director of the Shanghai Pear Syrup Candy Food Factory.) 他曾带领团队于2011年12月获得含药类梨膏糖（药梨膏）的生产许可证。

为了让后人也能掌握梨膏糖的制作，他率先提出梨膏糖制作工艺标准、“28字操作心决”：选料要细、火候要稳、翻砂要准、浇糖要匀、划糖要平、翻糖要快、掰糖要柔，将这一传统制作工艺落于纸面，真正将这一非遗技艺传承下去。(Wu proposed the key production standards for pear syrup candy: meticulous ingredient selection, consistent cooking temperature, accurate turning of the mixture, even coating of the syrup, as well as smooth cutting, quick flipping, and gentle breaking of the candy. By formulating these guidelines, he truly passes down this treasured intangible heritage.)

上海梨膏糖食品厂联席厂长吴生忠

为了传承梨膏糖文化，豫园股份改变以往梨膏糖单一口味局限，选用食品级花料，首创“花语系列梨膏糖”，(To move beyond the confines of one traditional flavor, Shanghai Yuyuan Tourist Mart Co., Ltd. chose food-grade flowers and introduced the unique “Floral Pear Syrup Candy”.) 并不断推出低糖型、迷你型等多款梨膏糖新品，壮大梨膏家族产品。

花语系列梨膏糖

去年，梨膏糖系列产品联手著名动画IP“巧虎”，针对儿童群体推出创新好产品——儿童梨膏系列，这是品牌年轻化的又一次尝试与进步。(In 2022, the manufacturer partnered with the famous animation IP “Qiaohu” and launched the children’s candy series, further broadening their presence among younger consumers.)

联手“巧虎”推出的儿童梨膏系列

梨膏成糖，亦药亦糖，深藏于上海城市记忆，浓缩着人文情怀。历史悠久为“老”，文化传承为“字”、经久不衰为“号”，上海梨膏糖食品厂的老字号在新时代下逐浪潮头，一步步拉近传统文化、非遗技艺与年轻人的距离。(Pear syrup candy, a sweet medicinal treat, has become an integral cultural symbol that resonates with the memories of Shanghai and its residents. This time-honored brand has proven its enduring vitality over time, and is embarking on a new journey to rekindle the appreciation of China’s traditional culture and intangible cultural heritages among the youth.)